Have you EVER owned a pencil skirt that fit you properly? I find the ready to wear either gape in the waist, or are too tight across the hip or thigh or the darts aren’t right. I guess perhaps my waist to hip ratio does not match the ideal hourglass figure. Neither is my widest point in the regular hip – I am a true pear with my thighs wider than my hips but with a very square waist to hips too. You can find step by step instruction AND there's even a spreadsheet that you can download and enter in your own measurements and it will work out all of the numbers for you to enter into the pattern.